Winchester model 70 New Haven

They do make the Medalist for LA's, I ordered one about a month ago. Still waiting for it to arrive. I talked with the gent who sold me the stock and said some fitting by a smith will be needed. Looking at the stock and my rifle, I don't see it as rocket science, so I am probably going to give it a go. Scotty
 
Scotty, I have never used the one piece botom metal. Bruce has given you good instructions for mounting it though. The center bolt on the model 70 will work fine if set right. You just need to set it at light torque (maybe 20-25 inch pounds) versus 65 inch pounds for the front and rear screw. The Williams bottom metal can be found for about $170. and up online.
 
I have looked at the 1 piece bottom metal, but I would prefer to keep what I have. I think it should work with a little elbow grease. Should have the stock shortly, so I will give you all a fitment test. Scotty
 
Scotty, You can likely epoxy that washer in place and even fill the small space between the mag box and stock with epoxy. I'll tell on myself here, when I fitted the Williams one piece to my Model 70 Classic sporter stock I botched it pretty bad. Walnut colored accra gel saved my bacon. But it still don't look too pretty. But who cares with a 7mm rem mag that shoots one hole groups.

Also, may I ask from whom you ordered your stock.
 
I took my new 300wsm out to the shop and introduced it to Mr. Socket and Mrs. Sandpaper, they gave it a good free floating barrel. I also lined the flimsy stock with some copper pipe to strengthen it up.


I have always heard of the hot glue reference about Winchester bedding, I always thought it was a joke. Jokes on me, they really use hot glue, LOL. I am bedding the rifle tomorrow.


Question for the Winchester guys, do I just bed the front lug or do I bed the front lug and bed the tang also?


Thanks
 
Heath, you are going to have to drill some small holes and rough up the plastic in order for the bedding to stick. I would bed both the tang and recoil lug if you are comfortable. I imagine if you bed them up properly you will have a serious shooter.

I would bet Tdeangelo (Tom) would have some good points for you also. He just got done bedding his M70 plastic stocks. Scotty
 
beretzs - I have done a considerable amount of business with B & C, from stocks to coatings and I can tell you one thing FOR SURE - their customer service is the worst I have encountered ... anywhere - I don't know what goes on there but one hand doesn't even know if "the other" is a hand OR A FOOT ! the products are good if not great though - I have encountered the very same type of problem with 3 different model 70 stocks and I am here to tell you that if you call back and insist on speaking with a "tech from the back room" you will be a world closer to being satisfied and don't take "NO" for an answer and don't believe a single word the sweet voiced gal on the phone tries to tell you
 
I picked up a tip from a home gunsmithing book I bought on close out at Wally World. When bedding an injection molded stock, i.e. cheepy rem or win, spray the area to be bedded with Bull Dog Adhesion Promoter. Its the stuff body shops spray on plastic before they paint so the paint will stick, somewhat. You can get it at most any auto parts store. I bedded a rem 700 adl using it and have had no troble with the bedding coming loose. I roughed up the surface and drilled some holes too.
 
Thanks for the info. I already had my holes drilled at the recoil lug, I was unsure of the tang though. When I bedded my Ruger I did lug and tang and it turned out great, so I guess that's what I'll do again.


Thanks
 
Bedded the rifle tonight, screwed up once and had to start over. I am breaking it loose in the morning and skimming the sides of the stock for the reciever, more pics in the morning.


Holes drilled and roughed up, copper pipe installed to make the stock more rigid:

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Bedding compound, good stuff, can be drilled and tapped if need be:

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24hrCampfire blue tape and release agent:

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I added compound high enough to just cover the pipe, so no real weigh added.


I went out this morning and popped it loose. It's always nice when they come apart. :)

The front came out looking great, after I snapped this pic I roughed up the sides for the bedding of the sides of the reciever.

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The tang looks good too, no crack or peels:

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It should be finished up by the time I get home from work. I am going to be sure that it's still floated and the it's time for a scope, rings and some stuff to make it go boom.
 
I'm fixing to undertake the same project. Same stock, same rifle (except mine is a XTR 30-06). I'm thinking about a piece of 24/64" easton aluminum arrown shaft bedded in the forearm for a little extra stability. Any thoughts from y'all on using a aluminum arrow shaft.
 
I have heard they work well and I have heard that carbon crossbow arrows work good too. I was going to use a carbon crossbow arrow until I looked up and saw the pipe. The way metal is going up it should add to the value of the gun. :mrgreen:
 
Skimmed over the sides this morning and popped it out this evening. Everything looks really good, my luck it will crack and turn to dust the first round.

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Rifle pic, please ignore the messy work bench, I have been to busy/lazy to clean it of:

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Oldtrader3":10rhix2k said:
Mountain Goat":10rhix2k said:
There are two very distinct differences in the M70 Classic CRF models. Early on, they had a poor quality extractor (pot metal at best) and two-piece bottom metal. The extractors were changed to a Williams around 1999-2000 or so and the one-piece bottom metal soon followed. The Classic Sporter went through 2 or 3 design changes in the stock. The latter NH versions were a David Miller design. I've owned a few over the years and actually prefer the current BACO made versions with the MOA trigger. Forget all you know about the M70 and give the new models a close look. They are very well built. New Haven models just wreak of American Labor Union quality, or lack thereof, in the final few years. The SC models are of good quality but not in huge supply and some with questionable barrels. The pre-64's do nothing for me even though I own two of them. Their barrels are wierd and the hinged floor-plate releases are not reliable at all. The finish on the receiver doesn't match the rest of the rifle. They are just old junk to me. If mine weren't family heirlooms, they'd been down the road long ago. I know the 3-position safety is regarded as one of the best ever designed, but I just can't get used to the loud click and abrupt movement forward when disengaging the safety.

IMHO, Winchester messed up by "puppy-milling" all these different actions and magazine styles and still calling them a M70. The Super Shadow and Coyote are CRPF models, but certainly are NOT model 70's, regardless of what Winchester calls them. They are still nice shooting rifles and quite serviceable though.

I do not know what Model 70 model that you are talking about? However, I do know New Haven, Winchester and USRAC Model 70's and all of them which are hinged floor plate, CRF feed Sporters or Super Grades. All have two piece bottom metal and wrought steel extractors. How do I know? I have owned roughly (26) Model 70 rifles (or so) of all floorplated configurations from S/N range 30XX (1936) to 2003 USRAC models. This includes carbines, rifles, prewar, transition, postwar, XTR, Mannlicher stocked, Super Grade, Sporter, Featherweight and USRAC, all New Haven. Plus, every permutation ever made by New Haven with floorplates. Maybe you have them confused with Wrinchesta (most perfect Chinese copy) or something?


Chinese copy? Do you honestly think that I'm that stupid? Not all permutation ever made by New Haven have hinged floorplates! Take a look at the M70 Super Shadow: blind magazine. You are the one who is confused by your own expertise of owning 26 winchesters.
 
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